Best Ways to Open and 2 Ways to Prevent STUCK Water Filter
It seems so easy, doesn't it? You just unscrew the filter housing, remove and replace the filter, an
Here are 5 great tips from the pros to help you out!
Turn your water supply off.
You probably have a shutoff on the supply line located before the filter. If you don't, then go to the hydro panel and turn the pump off.
Relieve the water pressure on the lines before you attempt to unscrew the housing that holds the wat
To do so, turn a faucet on inside the house to relieve the pressure and let the water run until it slows to a trickle. Then shut off the water after the filter housing to keep the water from the house from draining back.
Place a bucket under the filter housing.
If the housing has a relief button push that to make sure all the pressure is gone. Make sure that the filter housing is securely fastened. Brace the plumbing while unscrewing the housing and take it off. Remember, you will be turning the housing to the left...“Lefty loosey, righty tighty!”
If it does not come loose, you will need to try the following:
- a) Using a blow dryer to heat up and expand all of the outside of the housing until it becomes noticeably warm to the touch. Then knock it with a hammer and remove with the filter housing wrench.
b) Use two filter housing wrenches together, one for each hand and twist the housing with both wrenches.
c) You can sandwich two filter housing wrenches together and add pipe to give you more leverage.
d) Use a metal filter wrench, which is stronger and longer than the typical plastic one. You can buy these on Amazon in a number of sizes. If that doesn’t work, you can always add on a piece of pipe to that wrench.
- The last alternative I'd recommend is a Listle strap wrench. You just wrap it around your housing and with a ½” socket wrench, add some torque to release the filter housing. You can even add a piece of pipe to the socket wrench for more torque.
Be careful with this one
Now something else that you can try at home is you can use a blow dryer. And so what you do is, whatever's on the outside, so in this particular filter housing, the cap is on the outside. So what you can do is you can heat that up with a blow dryer, it takes a while, but you have to heat it up until it's noticeably hot and you have to heat it around all sides. And what that does, that expands it a little bit so that again, you can use the filter housing wrench that comes with your system to undo it.
IRON AND/OR MANGANESE BLEED THROUGH
- Iron bleed through from water filtration tank
- This usually represents a cleaning process issue. If the media isn’t lifted and separated properly, the media can’t expel the insoluble iron and/or manganese it has collected. If the media in the tank can’t clean itself, it started to die the minute it was turned on.
- Check the output of the well. A cone and gravel tank requires a minimum 8gp. A Vortech tank requires a minimum 5gpm.
- Check to make sure there is enough freeboard for the media during bed expansion. 35-40% is minimum.
- Remove the flow restrictor from the drain line fitting. This will increase flow.
- Regenerate the media with Oxydes P
- The problem could be water chemistry. If the PH is below 7.3 and there is heavy iron and especially manganese there might not be enough time to converting these constituents to filterable insoluble particles before the water leaves the tank.
- Or all the oxidation is taking place in the bottom of the treatment media and it is not getting removed during backwash.
- 1.Increase backwash cycle time.
- 2.Add Crystolite to the tank to increase the PH. Trappsorb will also increase the PH. Try and get the PH to 8+. The iron and/or Manganese will be more easily oxidized to insoluble particles, and this process will happen in the top part of the media bed. Making it easy for the media to clean itself and add efficiency and longevity.